A Trip To The Mixtec Villages of Coastal Oaxaca For Carnaval

Carnaval (carnival in English), the celebration that we also know as Mardi Gras, occurs each year, on or around Shrove Tuesday, the day before Ash Wednesday. In the Mixtec villages along the Pacific coast of the Mexican state of Oaxaca, these masked fiestas tend to occur over a period of days before Ash Wednesday. This year, as we have often done in the last few decades, my wife Lucy and I traveled to Puerto Escondido, Oaxaca, so that we could travel up the coast to revisit and research these dances.  Here is the view from the beach in front of our room in Puerto Escondido.

P1150431

We could choose between this quiet stretch of ocean, a section of pipeline surf several hundred yards to the viewers left, or a peaceful swimming pool next to our bungalow.

P1150434

On a low wall behind the swimming pool, the Mexican artist Alejandro Colunga has left a zoology lesson.

Continue Reading

Tin Tourist Masks from Taxco: Mexican Tinsmithing

Taxco, a Mexican city in the state of Guerrero, is well known as a center for the making of jewelry. By the 1950s it had also become the source for tin masks that were openly made and marketed for tourists. After two posts about traditional dance masks that were found on EBay™, I thought I would share some tin tourist masks from the same source. Because I have long been interested in tinsmithing, I collected these masks as folk art. Here is a typical example.

P1160027

This mask is 16 inches tall and 12 inches wide. It is constructed from a number of typical elements, including the face  and applied features such as the ears, and/or earrings, nose, lips, headdress, and glass marbles for the eyes.

Continue Reading

Another EBay Mask

This winter I was pleased to find a very attractive mask on EBay,™ one that I recognized as similar to some that I had seen in two related books. It came with some information—”Vintage Mexican Wooden Mask used in the  Moros & Cristianos dance in Sacatlan Puebla. This mask was purchased in 1981.” So we have the name of the place where this mask was danced (actually Zacatlán, Puebla, which is west of Teziutlán and on the western edge of the Sierra de Puebla mountain chain), the name of the dance, and we know that it was made prior to 1981; it is at least 35 years old. Although I found a reference to the performance of the Moros y Cristianos dance in Zacatlán, I was unable to find any video or image of this performance.

Here is that mask.

P1150947

I find this a very handsome mask, and call your attention to the carefully carved eyes. There are cracks in the wood, but I doubt that they will endanger the stability of the mask.

Continue Reading

Jaled Muyaes: Artist and Sculptor

When I visited Jaled Muyaes and Estela Ogazón in Mexico City, in November 2001, Estela made a sad announcement—all building activity in the city had ground to a halt. The reason? Jaled had bought up all of the tools! Joking aside, Jaled had been collecting antique tools for many years, but in the late 1990s he began to construct sculptures by welding worn recycled tools into columns or other arrangements. These were very attractive; in his family courtyard one saw columns of pickaxes and totem poles of shovels. He made small iron animals that he called “bichos,” Spanish slang for bugs or critters. He made masks from shovels; other tools provided the features.

Here is one of those critters.

P1140646

Continue Reading

Some Additional SLP Masks

John Levin, a Mexican mask collector who lives in San Francisco, California, has sent photos of some of his masks that are from  San Luis Potosí (SLP). I am pleased to share these with you.  In his day job John is a screenwriter; he has just published a book of his plays, Three Plays By John F. Levin. If others would like to contribute photos for display on this site, I would be pleased to explore that with them.

The first of these masks is an obvious devil, one of the Fariseos that perform during the drama of Semana Santa. Several aspects of this mask are notable. First, the features of the face are carefully carved, and enhanced by careful painting; I perceive the mask as having a glamorous feminine face. So I wonder if this is a Diablita, a female devil. Of course the beard argues against this, but that may have been applied by a dancer as an afterthought. Certainly there is a sharp contrast between this face and the faces of the brawlers in a recent post.

JLSLP1

Continue Reading

Semana Santa (Holy Week) in the Mexican state of San Luis Potosí Masks of Animals

This is another post in a series about Fariseo and related masks from the Mexican state of San Luis Potosí (SLP). This week I will present masks with animal faces.

In 1993 I purchased this owl mask from the shop of Mary Jane Gagnier de Mendoza—Mano Magica— in Ciudad Oaxaca, although it was originally collected by Jaled Muyaes and Estela Ogazón. According to the tag, this is a Fariseo mask from Tanlajas, SLP, that was danced during Semana Santa.

P1140683

The Owl mask is particularly interesting because it has drilled holes in a rectangular arrangement on the top; these evidently held 18 feathers.

Continue Reading

Semana Santa (Holy Week) in the Mexican state of San Luis Potosí—Additional Fariseo Masks With Human Faces

This week I will continue to present Fariseo masks from San Luis Potosí (SLP). Today we will examine five human faced masks; two appear to portray drunks/barroom brawlers, another is very similar to the first two, although he lacks their wounds and is otherwise stigmatized by  unattractive physical features. The fourth mask depicts a Soldado (soldier), which reminds me of the Fariseos from other states with names like Roveno (Roman soldier) and Centurion (see my post of March 9, 2015). The fifth is a Loco, someone who engages in wild and unpredictable behavior. As I noted in the last post, such masks are based on stereotypes of otherness, targeting those who are in some way different. This week’s masks appear to exemplify individuals notable for their impulsive or aggressive tendencies. I believe that all five of these masks were primarily worn by Fariseos during Semana Santa (Holy Week).

Here is the first of these Fariseo masks. René Bustamante called this the mask of a Golpeado (a person who has been wounded or beaten up); he believed  that it was intended for use in Carnaval. I have no doubt that it would serve well in that fiesta. As I discovered in the Sierra de Puebla, there are masks that were specifically created for Carnaval (such as the Onion Woman described in November 17, 2014 post), yet most of the masks used during those revels were borrowed from some other dance. This one was collected in Tancanhuitz, SLP, and René thought it was from the 1940s. If one googles™ “golpeado,” one is shown many photos of wounded faces. Some are of actors in makeup while others are victims of assault.

P1140786

This is the face of a person with lacerations and a swollen eye, dramatic evidence of a fight. However, the broad smile suggests that this mask does not portray a victim, but a brawler. He could be saying “You should see the other guy!”

Continue Reading

Semana Santa (Holy Week) in the Mexican state of San Luis Potosí—Fariseo Masks That Demonstrate Polarity

In the last two posts we have examined Fariseo masks from San Luis Potosí, such as skulls, demons, and devils, that were obvious representations of negative figures. But I threw in a bishop (Obispo), to include a potentially positive figure who had evidently turned bad. As Janet Esser pointed out in her doctoral thesis, Winter Ceremonial Masks of the Tarascan Sierra, Michoacan, Mexico, there is an obvious theme in Mexican Indian dance dramas of good versus bad or beautiful versus ugly. One can also find this expressed in terms of insider versus outsider, normal versus deviant, or wise versus ignorant. Dances featuring such dichotomies appear to have the purpose of moral teaching, essentially illustrating culturally defined behavioral choices, but sometimes through the use of stereotypes that have nothing to do with choice, because they reflect ethnicity, nationality, victimization, mental illness or intellectual limitations. Stereotyping through such labels is becoming increasingly less acceptable in North America, although it was common in the past, when such images had been incorporated in this dance. Today’s post will feature masks that raise such issues, while those in next week’s post will present another group of masks with ambiguous meanings that are likely to have been associated with ignorance and associated impulsive behaviors. This is an arbitrary division on my part, to manage such a variety of masks that must all be ultimately meant to represent negative figures, in this dance context (portraying the enemies of Christ during Semana Santa).

Here is a mask of a Rey (king).

P1140765

His expression is unfriendly, as if he is a malevolent figure—an evil king. On the other hand, he is wonderfully carved. There is a cross or star on his crown.

Continue Reading